The most common reason hair extensions underperform has nothing to do with the quality of the hair. It has to do with how the hair is looked after once it leaves the salon.
Raw hair — the highest grade available — can last 12 to 24 months or longer with the right care routine. The same hair, neglected or maintained incorrectly, can start to decline within weeks. The difference is almost entirely in the aftercare.
This guide covers everything you need to know: washing, conditioning, heat styling, sleeping, day-to-day maintenance, and the specific differences between caring for wigs versus sewn-in extensions. We've written this from direct experience — not from a generic template, but from what we see in our Nottingham studio every day, on real clients wearing real hair.
If you've ever had extensions that felt brilliant at first and then declined faster than expected, this guide is for you.
🛒 Shop Our Full CollectionBefore You Start: Understanding What Your Hair Is
The right care routine depends on what grade of hair you're wearing and how it has been constructed. The principles in this guide apply to all human hair extensions, but the specifics matter — particularly for raw and virgin hair, which behave differently to processed alternatives.
If you're unsure what grade of hair you have, our Hair Grade Guide breaks down the full hierarchy from synthetic to raw, including how to identify what you're working with.
For the purposes of this guide, the following applies across all grades of real human hair extensions unless otherwise stated.
The Golden Rules
Before we get into specifics, these four principles underpin everything else in this guide. If you take nothing else away, take these:
- Moisture is your most important tool. Extensions don't receive natural oils from the scalp the way your own hair does. You have to supply that moisture externally and consistently.
- Detangle before you do anything else. Washing, styling, and sleeping on tangled hair compounds the problem. Start detangled, every time.
- Gentle always wins. Extensions cannot regenerate damaged strands the way your scalp-grown hair can. Harsh products, excessive heat, and rough handling cause permanent, cumulative damage.
- Consistency matters more than intensity. A simple routine done regularly will always outperform an elaborate routine done occasionally.
Washing Your Extensions
How often to wash
The right washing frequency depends on your wear pattern, your scalp's natural oil production, and how much product you use. As a general guide:
| Wear Type | Recommended Wash Frequency |
|---|---|
| Glueless wig (daily wear) | Every 7–10 wears |
| Glueless wig (occasional wear) | Every 2–3 weeks, or when product build-up is noticeable |
| Sewn-in extensions (LA weave or sew-in) | Every 1–2 weeks at the scalp; full wash every 2 weeks |
| K-tip extensions | Every 1–2 weeks, avoiding the bond area where possible |
| Flip-over wig | Every 2–3 weeks, or when product build-up is noticeable |
Overwashing strips moisture and stresses the hair unnecessarily. Underwashing leads to product build-up, scalp issues, and tangling. The right frequency sits somewhere in the middle — consistent enough to keep the hair clean, gentle enough not to accelerate wear.
Choosing the right shampoo
For raw and virgin hair, use a sulphate-free shampoo. Sulphates are the cleansing agents in most standard shampoos — they're effective at removing oil and build-up, but they're also drying, and with repeated use they can rough up the cuticle layer over time. Sulphate-free formulas clean gently without stripping the hair's natural moisture balance.
Occasionally — perhaps once every 4 to 6 weeks, or when you notice significant product build-up — a single wash with a clarifying (sulphate) shampoo will reset the hair effectively. Do not use clarifying shampoos regularly. Use them as a reset tool, not a routine one.
For coloured extensions (including our Ines bob coloured variants), use a colour-safe sulphate-free shampoo to preserve tone and vibrancy between washes.
How to wash correctly
The technique matters as much as the product. Follow these steps every time:
- Detangle the hair fully before it gets wet. Wet tangled hair is significantly harder to work with and more prone to breakage.
- Wet the hair thoroughly with lukewarm water. Avoid hot water — it lifts the cuticle and accelerates moisture loss.
- Apply shampoo and work it through the hair in a downward motion — root to tip, following the direction of the cuticle. Never scrub in circular motions. Circular scrubbing disrupts cuticle alignment and causes tangling.
- Rinse thoroughly. Shampoo residue left in the hair attracts build-up and can dull the appearance of the hair over time.
- Gently squeeze out excess water — do not wring, twist, or rub.
A note on raw hair and washing
If you are wearing raw hair for the first time, the first wash is an important milestone. Unlike processed hair — which tends to look its best before the first wash and decline afterwards — raw hair typically improves after washing. The wash removes any residual dust or handling oils from transit, and the natural cuticle layer responds well to moisture and conditioning.
If your hair feels significantly worse after the first wash, that is usually a sign that a coating has been stripped away, revealing lower-quality fibre underneath. Genuine raw hair does not do this. This is one of the most reliable ways to assess whether the hair you purchased is genuinely raw. For more on this, see our Raw Hair Explained guide.
Conditioning and Moisture
Conditioning is where most extension wearers underinvest. Your scalp-grown hair benefits from natural sebum travelling down each strand — a process that keeps it moisturised and protected without any effort from you. Extensions receive no such benefit. Every drop of moisture they get has to come from you deliberately.
After every wash
- Apply a moisturising conditioner from mid-length to ends after every wash. Avoid applying conditioner directly to the roots or any bonded areas (for K-tip wearers, keep conditioner well away from the bonds — it can soften them).
- Leave the conditioner on for 3 to 5 minutes before rinsing. This gives it time to penetrate the cuticle rather than simply sitting on the surface.
- Rinse with cool water. Cool water closes the cuticle and seals in moisture — the opposite of what hot water does.
Weekly deep conditioning
Once a week, or at minimum every 2 weeks, use a deep conditioning mask on your extensions. Apply generously from mid-length to ends, cover with a shower cap, and leave for 20 to 30 minutes before rinsing. This level of conditioning is particularly important for longer lengths — the ends of longer extensions are the furthest from any moisture source and the most vulnerable to dryness and breakage.
Our Amara Burmese loose curl wig and any naturally curly or wavy textures benefit particularly from deep conditioning — the curl pattern depends on well-hydrated hair to define and hold correctly.
Daily moisture maintenance
- A lightweight leave-in conditioner or hair milk applied to mid-lengths and ends in the morning helps maintain moisture throughout the day without weighing the hair down.
- A few drops of a light oil — argan, jojoba, or sweet almond — applied to the ends seals in moisture and adds natural-looking lustre. Apply sparingly. A little goes a long way, and too much creates build-up.
- Avoid heavy silicone-based serums for daily use. They coat the hair and attract product build-up over time, which dulls the appearance and requires more frequent clarifying washes to remove.
Heat Styling
One of the genuine advantages of raw and virgin human hair is that it can be heat-styled — straightened, curled, blow-dried — just like your own natural hair. But heat is also the fastest way to accumulate damage if used without care.
The non-negotiable: heat protectant
Apply a heat protectant spray or serum to the hair before any direct heat tool is used. Every time, without exception. Heat protectants form a temporary barrier between the tool and the hair shaft, reducing moisture loss and cuticle damage during styling.
Temperature guidelines
| Tool | Recommended Temperature | Maximum |
|---|---|---|
| Straightening iron (flat iron) | 160–180°C | 200°C |
| Curling iron / wand | 150–180°C | 200°C |
| Blow dryer | Medium heat setting | High heat for short periods only |
High temperatures are rarely necessary to achieve a good styling result on raw hair — the hair responds well to heat precisely because its cuticle is intact. If your straightener needs to be at 230°C to work, the issue is usually technique or product build-up, not the hair.
Curly and wavy textures
If you're wearing a naturally curly or wavy texture — such as our Amara Burmese loose curl — minimise heat use where possible. The curl pattern in raw hair is natural and will hold beautifully with moisture alone. Repeated straightening of a naturally curly raw unit will gradually relax the curl pattern over time — not permanently at first, but cumulatively over months of repeated heat use.
Air drying
Where your schedule allows, let the hair air dry rather than blow drying. Air drying is the gentlest option and preserves quality over time. If you do blow dry, use a diffuser on curly textures and a nozzle attachment on straight textures to direct the airflow downward along the cuticle.
Detangling
Detangling is the most frequently skipped step in extension care, and the most consequential when skipped. Hair that is tangled before washing, before sleeping, or before styling will compound that tangle with every subsequent action. Address it first, every time.
The correct technique
- Always start at the ends and work upward toward the roots — never root to tip. Starting at the roots on tangled hair drags knots downward and causes unnecessary breakage.
- Use your fingers first to gently separate large tangles before introducing a tool.
- Follow with a wide-tooth comb or a paddle brush with flexible bristles. Avoid fine-tooth combs on extensions — they create too much tension and can pull strands from wefts or bonds.
- Work in sections on longer lengths. Trying to detangle a 20-inch unit in one pass creates more friction than working through it in four or five sections.
- If you encounter a stubborn tangle, apply a small amount of leave-in conditioner or detangling spray to the area before continuing. Never force through a knot.
How often to detangle
- Before every wash
- Before bed
- Before styling
- After any activity that causes significant movement or friction (exercise, wind, etc.)
Sleeping in Your Extensions
How you sleep in your extensions has a significant impact on their condition over time. Eight hours of friction against a cotton pillowcase, with hair loose and unprotected, is one of the fastest ways to cause matting, tangling, and cuticle damage.
For wig wearers
The simplest option is to remove your wig before bed and store it correctly. Place it on a wig stand or mannequin head to maintain the shape and prevent creasing. Never fold or compress a stored wig. If you prefer to wear your wig overnight, follow the same guidance as sewn-in extensions below.
For sewn-in and K-tip wearers
- Braid the hair loosely into one or two plaits before bed. This keeps it contained and significantly reduces friction and tangling overnight.
- Alternatively, gather the hair into a loose, low pineapple (high ponytail at the crown) using a soft scrunchie — never an elastic band, which causes breakage at the point of contact.
- Sleep on a satin or silk pillowcase. Cotton creates friction that roughens the cuticle layer with every movement during the night. Satin and silk have a smooth surface that the hair glides over without resistance.
- A satin bonnet or silk hair wrap is an even more effective option — it keeps the hair fully protected regardless of how you move during the night.
For curly textures
Loose curl and wavy textures are more vulnerable to overnight friction than straight textures. The pineapple method or a satin bonnet is strongly recommended. Apply a small amount of curl refresher or leave-in conditioner in the morning to reactivate the pattern after sleep.
Day-to-Day Maintenance
Protecting your hairline and edges
For wig wearers, your natural hairline and edges need attention even while wearing a unit. Avoid styles that put constant tension on your edges — tight gel application, pulling the lace too tightly, or securing the wig with excessive clips or pins over extended periods.
Keep your natural hair and scalp moisturised underneath your wig. A dry scalp under a unit for extended periods can affect the health of your natural hair and edges over time.
Protecting extensions during exercise
- Tie the hair back in a loose braid or ponytail before physical activity.
- After exercise, allow any sweat to dry fully before tying the hair up or putting on a wig cap. Trapping moisture against the hair or scalp creates conditions for build-up and potential scalp issues.
- If you swim, protect the hair with a swimming cap. Chlorine and salt water both strip moisture aggressively and can alter colour in treated units. If the hair does get wet in a pool or the sea, rinse thoroughly with fresh water as soon as possible and condition promptly.
Product build-up
Even with good products, build-up accumulates over time. Signs of product build-up include dullness, reduced movement, sticky or heavy feel, and increased tangling that wasn't previously present. A single clarifying wash every 4 to 6 weeks — followed immediately by a deep conditioning treatment — addresses build-up effectively without over-stripping the hair.
Care by Extension Method
Glueless wigs
Our glueless wig collection includes units crafted from raw Vietnamese, Cambodian, and Burmese hair. Because these are removable units, you have the advantage of being able to care for the wig and your natural hair separately.
- Wash every 7 to 10 wears as described above.
- Store on a wig stand between wears — never in a bag while still damp.
- Allow the wig to dry fully before storing. Storing a damp wig creates conditions for mildew and odour.
- Handle the lace carefully. HD lace is very fine and can tear if tugged or pulled carelessly. When removing the wig, release any clips or elastic adjusters first, then ease the lace from the hairline gently.
- Clean the lace periodically with a small amount of diluted shampoo applied with a soft toothbrush. Work gently along the lace in one direction — do not scrub.
LA weave extensions
LA weave extensions are installed using micro rings, which means there are no bonds or adhesive to work around — but the rings do require consideration during washing and styling.
- Wash the scalp and extensions gently, working in a downward direction to avoid tangling around the rings.
- Avoid applying heavy conditioning products directly to the ring area — build-up around the rings can cause slippage over time.
- Book maintenance appointments every 6 to 8 weeks to have the weft repositioned as your natural hair grows. At Keré Hair Co. UK, raw hair wefts used in LA weave installations can be removed and reused across multiple appointments — a significant cost benefit over time.
- Avoid tugging or pulling at the weft between appointments. If a ring feels loose, book in for a check rather than attempting to tighten it yourself.
K-tip extensions
K-tip extensions use a keratin bond applied close to the root. The bond is the most important thing to protect during the care routine.
- Keep conditioner and oils away from the bond area. Both can soften the keratin and cause premature slippage.
- When washing, hold the bonds gently as you work through the hair above them — avoid letting the hair drag heavily from the bond point while wet, as wet hair is heavier and puts more stress on the attachment.
- Dry the bond area thoroughly after washing. Moisture trapped around the bond can weaken it over time and may affect scalp health.
- Book repositioning appointments every 10 to 12 weeks. Raw hair K-tip bonds can be removed and reapplied — the hair itself is reusable, keeping long-term costs manageable.
Sew-in extensions
Traditional sew-in extensions are stitched to a cornrow base. The primary care consideration is the health of your natural hair and scalp underneath the installation.
- Use a bottle applicator or a targeted nozzle to clean the scalp directly between rows every 1 to 2 weeks. A clean scalp is essential for natural hair health during a sew-in.
- Moisturise the scalp between rows regularly — dry scalp under a sew-in is one of the most common causes of breakage at the removal stage.
- Do not leave a sew-in installation in for longer than 8 weeks without professional attention. Extended wear without maintenance increases the risk of matting at the roots and breakage on removal.
- Book removal with a professional. Attempting to remove a sew-in without the right technique risks taking your natural hair with it.
Flip-over wigs
Our flip-over wigs are the most low-maintenance option in the collection. Care principles are similar to glueless wigs — wash every 2 to 3 weeks, store on a stand, and allow to dry fully before putting away.
Extending the Life of Your Investment
Raw hair is a long-term investment. The clients who get 18 to 24 months from their units and bundles are the ones who treat their extensions with the same care and consistency they would give their own natural hair. The clients who replace their hair every 3 to 4 months are almost always those whose care routine has gaps.
A few habits that make a significant difference over the long term:
- Trim the ends lightly every 3 to 4 months. Just as with your own hair, the ends of extensions are the oldest and most fragile part. A small trim keeps them looking fresh and prevents split ends from travelling up the strand.
- Refresh the hair periodically with a professional treatment at our studio. A deep condition, light trim, and professional assessment of the installation will extend wear and catch any issues early.
- Store wigs and spare bundles correctly when not in use — on a stand or in a satin bag, away from direct sunlight and heat sources.
- Keep a simple product log. If you're trying a new shampoo, oil, or conditioner, note how the hair responds. The right product routine is individual — what works brilliantly for one client may not suit another.
Quick Reference: Care at a Glance
| Task | Frequency | Key Point |
|---|---|---|
| Wash | Every 7–14 days depending on wear | Sulphate-free shampoo, downward motion, lukewarm water |
| Condition | Every wash | Mid-length to ends only; rinse with cool water |
| Deep condition | Every 1–2 weeks | 20 to 30 minutes under a shower cap |
| Clarifying wash | Every 4–6 weeks | Once only — follow with deep condition immediately |
| Detangle | Before every wash, before bed, before styling | Ends to roots, fingers first, wide-tooth comb second |
| Heat styling | As desired | Always heat protectant first; keep below 180°C where possible |
| Overnight protection | Every night | Loose braid or pineapple; satin pillowcase or bonnet |
| Light oil application | Daily or as needed | Ends only; argan, jojoba, or sweet almond; use sparingly |
| Professional maintenance | Every 6–12 weeks | Repositioning, assessment, deep treatment |
| End trim | Every 3–4 months | Light trim only — preserves the length while removing split ends |
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I wash my extensions every week?
Yes, if your scalp requires it — particularly for sewn-in and K-tip wearers with oilier scalps. Use a gentle sulphate-free shampoo and ensure you condition thoroughly after every wash. The key is not to over-dry the hair through excessive washing without compensating with adequate conditioning.
Why does my hair tangle so much?
The most common causes are insufficient moisture, skipping the detangling step before washing or sleeping, and using products with heavy silicones that attract build-up. If tangling has increased suddenly, a clarifying wash followed by a deep condition usually resolves it. If it persists, book a consultation — it may be a sign the installation needs attention.
Can I colour my extensions at home?
We strongly recommend against DIY colouring of extensions, particularly raw or virgin hair. Raw hair responds to colour well precisely because it is unprocessed — but that also means an incorrect application can cause irreversible damage. Professional colour application by someone experienced with extensions is always the safer choice. At Keré Hair Co. UK, we offer colour services as an add-on for our units. Get in touch to discuss your options.
How do I know if my extensions need replacing?
With raw hair, the signs are gradual rather than sudden. Look for: ends that are persistently dry despite conditioning, a noticeable reduction in shine or movement, thinning of the weft or strand count, and tangling that doesn't resolve with product or technique adjustments. If you're seeing these signs before the 12-month mark, the care routine is usually the first place to review.
Can I swim with my extensions in?
Yes, but take precautions. Wear a swimming cap where possible. If the hair gets wet in a pool or the sea, rinse immediately with fresh water and condition as soon as you can. Chlorine is particularly damaging to coloured extensions — the Ines coloured bob variants should be kept well away from chlorinated water without a swimming cap.
Where can I book a maintenance appointment?
We offer maintenance appointments at our Nottingham studio for all extension methods we install — K-tip, LA weave, and sew-in — as well as wig servicing for units purchased from Keré Hair Co. UK. You can book online here.
The Summary
Great extensions and a poor care routine will always produce a disappointing result. Great extensions and a consistent, gentle routine will give you hair that performs beautifully for months — sometimes years.
The routine doesn't need to be complicated. Wash regularly, condition generously, detangle before you do anything else, protect overnight, use heat with care, and book maintenance appointments before problems develop. That's it.
If you ever have a question about caring for your specific unit or installation, we're here to answer it. Book a consultation, message us on Instagram, or drop us a line through the contact page. We'd rather answer ten questions now than see the results of guesswork later.
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